When in Milan…

With fashionistas the world over descending on Milan this week for the cavalcade of catwalks, the truly intrepid traveler will want to take advantage of a few “insider” tips on taking their coffee, java, or, if you prefer, joe, like a native.

First thing to consider: you’re visiting the old world where a handful of grand old-school bars have been cranking out flawless cappuccinos on buttercup damask tablecloths for nearly a century.

These traditional bars are the best places to ingest coffee in the city, but they are also great places to pop in for a quick lunch or preshow aperitivo. Here, the coffee is as smooth as silk, and a glass of spumante costs less than a Coca-Cola.

ETIQUETTE

* Please, no cappuccinos after noon. It’s strictly a breakfast drink.
* If you take your coffee and brioche standing at the bar, get your receipt first. It will cost you a 1/4 of the table service prices.
* It’s perfectly acceptable to ask for your coffee da portare via, or “to go.” The barmen will enjoy the novelty.
* From 6:30 to 8:30 p.m., stop by for an aperitivo and you’ll be showered in decadent, free food with your drink.
* Skim milk is for sadists.
* Canines welcome at all times; computers, less so.